Little known fact – snails are total party animals.
Snails have long been seen as boring, slow, and slimy. While there is no denying their slowness or sliminess, snails are anything but boring.
Have you ever wondered why snails only come out at night? It’s because they are out there raging! Then they have to sleep all day because they were out partying all night! The inside of a snail’s shell is filled with disco balls, confetti, and cake!
Now you can make your very own Party Snail and spread the truth about snails to all! I’d love to see what you create – tag your Party Snail pics on Instagram with the hashtag #TinyCurlMakes and tag me @tinycurl!
Don’t want to make your own? There’s a few I’ve made available in the Tiny Curl Etsy Shop!
Click “Continue reading…” to make your own!
PARTY SNAIL PATTERN
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- Worsted weight yarn in 3 colors (See the specific yarn I used below and reference the first picture above)
- Left Snail- I Love This Cotton yarn in the colors Banana (body), Carousel Ombre (shell and pompom), and Coral (hat)
- Middle Snail- I Love This Cotton yarn in the colors Mango (body), Pistache (shell and pompom), and Carousel Ombre (hat)
- Right Snail- Lily Sugar N Cream yarn in Yellow (body), Playtime Ombre (shell and pompom), and Hot Pink (hat).
- 2.75 mm hook (you can also use a 2.25 or 2.5 mm hook for a tighter stitch)
- Stuffing (I use Poly-fil)
- Black cotton embroidery thread for the face
- Nylon heavy duty thread or fishing line (for pompom)
- Tapestry needle
- Embroidery needle
- Stitch marker
The size of your finished Party Snail will vary based on your yarn, hook, and tension. My Party Snails are approx. 4.5 inches tall (from hat pompom to bottom of snail) and 4 inches across.
CROCHET TECHNIQUES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMINOLOGY)
I have provided a few links below for tutorials I made on how I do the specified stitch!
R – Round
MR – Magic Ring
Ch – Chain
St(s) – Stitch(es)
Ss – Slip stitch
Sc – Single crochet
Sc inv inc – Single crochet invisible increase (also sometimes called sc 2 in 1 st)
Sc inv dec – Single crochet invisible decrease (also sometimes called sc2tog)
* * – Repeat the steps between the asterisk for the specified number of times
( ) – The number of stitches you should have at the end of each round
Finish off – Knot your yarn close to the piece and weave through the sts in the last round
The shell, body, and hat are all worked in a CONTINUOUS ROUND (like a spiral). Mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker.
For your body color, use a light color so the face shows!
Invisible increase and decrease – For this pattern, I use invisible increases and decreases so my work is tighter and neater. If you are more comfortable with normal increases and decreases, you can use those too, however your stuffing may show through your stitches. (But you should really give it a try! I know you’ll love them!)
Round 1 – Start with a magic ring. Make 7 sc into center of mr (7 sts)
R2- *sc inv inc* 7 times (14 sts)
R3- *sc 1, sc inv inc* 7 times (21 sts)
R4- * sc 2, sc inv inc* 7 times (28 sts)
R5- *sc 3, sc inv inc* 7 times (35 sts)
R6- *sc 4, sc inv inc* 7 times (42 sts)
R7-10- sc around (42 sts)
NOTE: Weave in your beginning yarn tail before continuing
R11- *sc 4, sc inv dec* 7 times (35 sts)
R12- *sc 3, sc inv dec* 7 times (28 sts)
R13- *sc 2, sc inv dec* 7 times (21 sts)
Note: Stuff the shell before continuing
R14- *sc 1, sc inv dec* 7 times (14 sts)
R15- *sc inv dec* 7 times, ss into first st of previous round (7sts)
Round 1- Start with a magic ring, sc 7 into mr (7 sts)
R2- *sc inv inc* 7 times (14 sts)
R3-5- sc around (14 sts)
R6- *sc 5, sc inv dec* 2 times (12 sts)
R7-24: sc around
NOTE: Stuff your snail’s body when you reach R16. The body should only be stuffed from R1-R16. Don’t stuff the section of body that will be under the shell. This will help your snail stand up on its own. During rows 7-24, we are getting our snail’s body to the right length. When I am working, I find it easier to ditch the stitch marker and not mark the first st of the round. When I put the body against the shell and it’s at the right length, I begin decreasing.
R25- *sc 4, sc inv dec* 2 times (10 sts)
R26- sc around (10 sts)
R27- *sc 3, sc inv dec* 2 times (8 sts)
R28- sc around (8 sts)
R29- *sc 2, sc inv dec* 2 times, ss into first st of last round (6 sts)
Finish off, but DON’T WEAVE IN THE END and leave a long tail (about 2 feet long) for attaching the body to the shell.
HAT *UPDATED with R4 to make the hat taller*
Round 1- Start with a magic ring, sc 5 into mr (5 sts)
NOTE: Leave the beginning yarn tail outside of the hat and don’t weave in this end. We will use it to attach the pompom.
R2- *sc 1, sc inv inc* 2 times, sc in final st of round (7 sts)
R3- *sc 2, sc inv inc* 2 times, sc in final st of round (9 sts)
R4- *sc 3, sc inv inc* 2 times, sc in final st of round, ss into first st of last round (11 sts)
Leave a long tail (about 2 feet).
Make a tiny pompom with the shell color yarn. To make a pompom, I wrap the yarn around 1 finger and tie the center with a piece of nylon thread (any color). Then I cut the loops and shape the pompom with scissors. I made this video tutorial for making your tiny pompom.
Using the beginning yarn tail of the hat, thread through the center of the pompom so that the yarn is going through the knotted thread securing your pompom. Bring the yarn tail back through the top of the hat and knot it on the inside of the hat. Weave the tail in so it’s secure. Cut the remaining tail length and/or stuff it into the hat.
ATTACHING THE BODY TO SHELL
We will be attaching the shell with 3 rows of running stitches, going through a st on the shell and then through a st on the body. We will start with a center running stitch that connects the body to the shell.
Using your tapestry needle, thread the long end tail from your body and bring it through the center of the tail (where you fastened off). Bring the needle up through the snail body at the point where you want to begin attaching it to the shell (around the row you started decreasing on the body, see image 1 below).
Thread your needle in and out of a stitch on the shell (image 2 below). Then thread your needle in and out of a stitch on the body (image 3 below) pulling to tighten. Continue this running stitch (image 4 below) until you reach the bottom of the snail’s head (about the 7th row of the body). Leave the snail’s head detached from the shell. Pinch your snail’s head so that it is flatter and wider than the rest of it’s body.
Now we will be making 2 additional rows of running stitches along the base of the snail. This will help it stand up on its own by flattening the bottom. Go through the snail’s body with your threaded needle and bring it out a little above the base of the snail’s body (about row 14 of the body, see image 5 below). Working with the same running stitch in the stitches directly next to your center stitch line, work your way to the end of the shell (images 6, 7, and 8 below show the process).
Bring your needle through the snail’s body to the other side of the center running stitch (image 9 below) and work your way back up the snail’s body with the running stitch (image 10), ending where you started the other side running stitch line.
ATTACHING THE HAT
Using the long tail of yarn, attach the hat to the snail’s head. This video shows a good technique for attaching amigurumi pieces.
Once you have attached the hat to the snail’s head, don’t knot off. We will be making a brim around the hat. Insert your hook into a st close to the yarn tail (image 1 below) and pull up a loop (image 2 below). Working around the edge of the hat, *ss into the next st, ch 1* around the brim. Then make a knot to secure and weave in your end.
EMBROIDERING THE FACE
Thread your embroidery needle with black embroidery thread (about 2 feet) and knot the end.
NOTE: Embroider thread is 6 ply (aka has 6 individual strings), you will be using all 6 strings.
When making stitches on the head, you want to make sure you are going in and out of the SAME hole on the back of the head so you don’t have black thread showing on the back. On the back of the head, you are going to be going BETWEEN the stitches (the bigger openings). When you are working with the front of the face, you want to go THROUGH the stitches so your work stays on the front and doesn’t slip inside.
Insert your hook through the back of the snail’s head BETWEEN stitches and bring it through the front of the snail’s head THROUGH a stitch, where you want to place your first eye. Pull the beginning thread knot into the snail’s head from the back, so it is hidden.
Each eye is made with one french knot. This is a good tutorial for learning the french knot.
NOTE: You can also make your eyes with black beads or tiny safety eyes if you prefer.
Make your first french knot and make sure you are bringing your needle through a stitch at the front and between a stitch at the back.
Bring your thread through a stitch at the front of the head where you want to make your second eye. Be sure to leave enough room between your eyes for the snail’s mouth. Make a french knot as above.
Bring your thread through a stitch at the front of the head where you want to start your mouth. Make a horizontal stitch and bring the yarn through the back of the head.
Bring your thread through the front, a little above and to the left of your mouth stitch. Insert and pull your thread through the mouth stitch (See image below). Insert the needle to a little below and to the left of your mouth stitch and bring through to the back. Repeat on the other side of the mouth and secure your thread.
Party on my snails and snail-lovers! Follow me on Instagram @tinycurl for more happy and fun crochet.
ヽ(ﾟｰﾟ*ヽ) This pattern is an original pattern by Kristina Turner of Tiny Curl. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it, but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it. This pattern is for your personal use only and can not be made to sell. Thank you for your understanding. (ﾉ*ﾟｰﾟ)ﾉ